see it clearly

Flat Bottom Row Boat

HERE is a very simple and serviceable boat. Before beginning actual work see that all your tools are in good condition.

Materials Needed:

  • Sides -- Two boards 16' long, 16" wide, and 7/8" thick.

  • Bottom -- One piece, length 14' 4", width 8", thickness 5/8".
  • Two pieces, length 13' 8", width 7", thickness 5/8".
  • Two pieces, length 12', width 7", thickness 5/8".
  • Thickness of all bottom boards is the same.

  • Molds -- (No. 1) one piece, length 33", width 15", thickness 7/8".
  • (No. 2) one piece, length 44", width 15", thickness 7/8".
  • (No. 3) one piece, length 43.5", width 14.5", thickness 7/8".
  • (No. 4) one piece, length 40", width 13.5", thickness 7/8".
  • Thickness of all molds is the same.

  • Stern Board -- One piece, length 32", width 13", thickness 7/8".

  • Seats -- Two pieces, 15" x 10" x 5/8".
  • Two pieces, 12" x 7".
  • Two pieces, 18" x 10".
  • One piece, 39" x 10".
  • One piece, 42" x 10".
  • All seats are the same thickness.

  • Deck -- One piece, 13" x 12" x 7/8".

  • Stem -- One piece, 17" long x 3 5/8" x 2 1/4".

  • Oarlock Blocks -- Four pieces, 10" x 2.5" x 2.5".

  • Ribs and Floor Timbers -- 42 feet of 1" square oak strips.

  • Seat Risers -- Two strips, 14' long x 2" wide x 7/8" thick.

  • Floor Strips -- Two pieces, 8' long x 2" wide x 1/4" or 1/2" thick.

  • Two pieces, 8' long x 2" wide x 1/4" or 1/2" thick.
  • Four pieces, 12' long x 2" wide x 1/4" or 1/2" thick.

  • Foot Braces.--Four pieces, 8" long x 1 3/4" wide x 1".
  • Two pieces, 10" long x 1" x 1". All of oak.

  • Oarlock Block Supports -- Four pieces, 15" x 2" x 1". Y (Fig. 8).
  • Four pieces, 17" x 2" x 5/8". Z (Fig. 8).

  • Fenderwale -- Two long strips, 16' long x 2" wide x 1/2" thick.

  • Keel -- Oak board, 1" thick, 4" wide, and 15' long.

Use 2-inch clout nails for nailing bottom. Brass screws in all sizes from 1 inch long to 3 inches long will be required. The boat should receive two coats of paint inside and three coats outside. This will take two gallons of paint and one gallon of boiled oil for thinning purposes. Two pairs of oarlocks are required. Caulk all cracks in the bottom with oakum.

Work very slowly and carefully. Three weeks is good time in which to make this boat right.

First saw out the molds. Nail them to a plank as shown. They should not rest on the plank. We now tack the sideboards or side streaks on to the molds and bring them to a point at the bow or fore end. Put in the stern board and the middle bottom board. The molds are merely to aid us in shaping the boat, and nothing must be nailed to them except temporarily. The sideboards will have to be shaved off with a plane so the bottom boards will lay flat upon them. Great care must be taken in cutting out the dimensions of the stem of the boat . Its are shown clearly. The sideboards fit into this stem piece. The boat now begins to look like the real thing. We have the sides, stern, stem, and bottom complete.

We next put in the ribs and floor timber. The seat riser is a long cleat nailed to the ribs. The floor consists of long cleats nailed to the floor timber. We now put on the seats and the little decking at the bow end of the boat. Next come the blocks for the oarlocks. Along the whole length of the boat at the top of the sideboards and stern is a strip called the fenderwale. The keel is a hard board nailed to the bottom of the bottom of the boat. It protects it when sliding on the sand of a creek bed or in shallow water.