see it clearly


THE boat shown in the accompanying sketch is intended for use in a shallow pond or marsh. The craft is a flat-bottomed, one-passenger affair, and is poled along.


A complete view from the top and side is presented by the cut marked Fig. 2. Our first work will be to saw out the two eight-foot side boards, which we might dignify by the name of gunwales. For those is recommended cypress, one inch or more in thickness. Next, put in the center floor timbers, which are two inches square and twenty inches long. Put in the one in the exact center, keeping its lower edge a half-inch up from the lower edge of the side board. Next put in the stem and stern pieces, which form the ends of the boat. These are only ten inches long, so the sides will be bent. You may now put in all the other floor timbers, eighteen pieces, to conform to the shape and dimensions of the diagram in Fig. 2. The short side braces, or ribs, are now attached as shown in detail by Fig. 4.

In Fig. 5 you get a good view of the pair of braces put on the top edges of the gunwales, in X shape. These will add strength and rigidity to the ends and should be securely fastened with long, slender screws.

The best material to use for the bottom boards is half-inch matched flooring. Clear pine will do as good as any, but the tongues and grooves must be coated with a thick mixture of white lead and oil before being put together. The edge pieces, which are curved, will tax your patience. The crack should be puttied and battened with a long strip. Before the boat gets any wetting at all it must receive three thorough coats of paint inside and outside.

The pole used may be a bamboo fishing rod or a sapling of sufficient lightness. Fig. 6 is a diagram of how to start and end the stroke. Racing in punts of this type is fine exercise, and for frog and turtle hunts they can't be improved upon.