The early history of the lace-making machine coincides with that of
the stocking frame, that machine having been adapted about the year 1768
for producing open looped fabrics which had a net like appearance. About
1786 frames for making point nets by machinery first appear at Mansfield
and later al Ashbourne and Nottingham and soon afterwards modifications
were introduced into such frames in order to make varieties o meshes in
the point nets which were classed as figured nets In 1808 and 1809 John
Heathcoat of Nottingham obtained patents for machines for making bobbin
net with a simpler and more readily prod
uced mesh than that of the point
net just mentioned. For at least thirty years thousands of women had been
employed in and about Nottingham in the embroidering of simple ornament on net.
In 1813 John Leavers began t improve the
figured net weaving machines above mentioned and from these the lace
making machines in use at the present time were developed. But it
was the application of the celebrated Jacquard apparatus to such
machines that enable manufacturers to produce all sorts of patterns in imitation of the patterns for
hand made lace. A French
machine called the dentelliere was devised and the patterns produced by
it were of plaited threads.
The expense, however, attending the production of plaited lace by the dentelliere
is as great as that of pillow lace made by the hand, and so
the machine did not succeed for ordinary trade purposes.
The component parts of different makes
of lace may be considered. These are governed by the ornaments or patterns,
which may be so designed, as they were
in the earlier laces, that the different component parts may touch one
another without any intervening ground-work. But as a wish arose to vary
the effect of the details in a pattern ground works were gradually
developed and at first consisted of links or ties between the
substantial parts of the pattern.
The bars or ties were succeeded by
grounds of meshes, like nets. Sometimes the substantial parts of a
pattern were outlined with a single thread or by a strongly marked
raised edge of buttonhole stitched or of plaited work. Minute fanciful
devices were then introduced to enrich various portions of the pattern.
Some of the heavier needle-made laces resemble low relief carving in
ivory, and the edges of the relief portions are often decorated with
clusters of small loops. For the most part all this elaboration was
brought to a high pitch of variety and finish by French designers and
workers; and French terms are more usual in speaking of details in
laces. 
Thus the solid part of the pattern is called the toile or
clothing, the links or ties are called brides, the meshed grounds are
called réseaux, the outline to the edges of a pattern is called
cordonnel or brodé, the insertions of fanciful devices modes, the little
loops picots. These terms are applicable to the various portions of
laces made with the needle, on the pillow or by the machine.