On the 21st of June, the expedition took
up the line of march in a northern direction; two companies
being in advance to pilot and select camping grounds, while a
portion were on fatigue duty with axes to cut down trees, and
shovels to slope steep banks of streams for crossing the
wagons; at some places ropes had to be used to prevent them
from upsetting or being broke to pieces; some were on guard
duty, while others were driving cattle. A few days after
starting, they came upon a herd of buffalo; which gave sport
to those who could engage in it; while others on duty could
only look on, but they came in for full share of the trophy at
mess time.
Crossing the Brazos a few miles below
Camanche Peak, they went to Noland's river, where commenced a
forest of of black jack and post oak, known as the Cross
Timbers. Finding the wagons to be overloaded, they burned the
tent poles, reserving only one tent for hospital use; and
threw away a portion of dried beef, which was taken along to
be used in case of loss of cattle. Cutting their way through
the timber was very laborious, on account of the underbrush
and gullies; all suffered from the heat and want of water, the
little each one carried not lasting to the next camp; after
two weeks toil, they forced a passage out to the prairie,
taking a north-westerly course, which led them to an Indian
village of the Waco tribe on the Wichita.
White flags were displayed to entice the
Indians to a talk, so as to learn something of the country
ahead, but they fled and were quickly out of sight. There were
about forty houses which were neatly constructed, although not
tightly enclosed; the place was quite cleanly and the rich
lands around were well cultivated with corn and pumpkins.
After a short examination of Indian husbandry and thriftiness,
the command pursued its way up the fertile bottom of what was
supposed be be Red River, until finding it heading too much
south; the country becoming rough and broken up by hills, they
continued their course; reaching a stream of fresh
water--since leaving the Brazos, most of the water had been
brackish. With the commissioners, there was a Mexican servant
named Carlos, who professed to a knowledge of the country, and
that the stream was the Rio Utan, where he had often trapped.
After making their way over a rough
country that was almost impassable for the wagons, they
reached a high piece of table-land with excellent grass;
Carlos said the Mexicans frequently brought their sheep there
on account of the pasturage; he pointed to the direction of a
large spring and creek of fresh water, and described where
plums which grew on bushes could be found; all which proved to
be as stated; he supposed they were then about eighty miles
from San Miguel, a frontier town in New Mexico. The
commissioners, relying on the statements of Carlos, determined
to send forward the guide, Mr. Howland, who had lived several
years in Santa Fe, with Messrs. Baker and Rosenberry to
procure provisions and consult some of the principal white
inhabitants as to the reception the expedition would probably
meet.
Carlos was now intrusted to pilot. The
next day Mr. Kendall chased a buffalo some few miles to the
south, where, from a high ridge, he discovered the heavy
timber of a stream; which he communicated on his return;
Carlos was positive there was no river near them in that
direction. Captain Caldwell visited the timber, and pronounced
it to be the Brazos, which was supposed by all to be a long
distance to the south; continuing their course, Carlos pointed
out three high peaks, which he said were the Crows, that
served as a guide to the Narrows, where the supposed Red River
cut its way through the mountains; this was cheering news, for
they had camped the night previous without water.
Their route was on a high prairie,
where, without seeing any sign ahead of any change in their
travel, they suddenly reached the brow of a precipitous bluff,
some two or three hundred feet in height, which overlooked a
valley of four or five miles in width. The descent in search
of water was through dead cedars, along rocky ridges, and down
almost perpendicular banks where they had to dismount from
their horses; when, after three or four miles meandering, they
found water that was more brackish than any before met with.
The camp was located on the plain which was covered with
coarse grass two or three feet in height. Accidentally the
camp fires spread amongst it, and with such rapidity, that two
wagons were consumed. It was by the greatest exertions of the
men that more were not burnt up. From the Commissioner's wagon
a box got broke open, from which were scattered about a number
of pamphlets containing correspondence between some leading
citizens of Santa Fe and President Lamar, together with an
address by the President, asserting the claims of Texas; it
was printed in English and Spanish.
The impassable valley changed their
course to the west. As they neared what Carlos called the
Crows, the travel and water became worse; Carlos, perceiving
he had been greatly mistaken in the locality of the country,
and fearing illtreatment from the men, he with an
Italian
named Brignoli, deserted. This was near the middle of August,
and they were in a succession of rugged hills and cedar
brakes. Working their way, they came to a branch with a salt
spring, the water from which could only be drank as it issued
from the bank; if left for a few minutes to the air, it became
repulsive to swallow. At this camp Dr. Brashear died, making
the third death since their starting.
